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tales of a pastry chef

~ I'm a pastry chef and blogger who loves to cook, eat and travel. follow my adventures through food with tips, tricks, recipes and reviews.

tales of a pastry chef

Monthly Archives: June 2011

Back off the slack

27 Monday Jun 2011

Posted by Tales of a London Girl in Uncategorized

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Well as you’ve probably noticed, the blog has been a wee bit neglected as of late so apologies for that. My love flew away to thailand and with him seemed to go my deisre to cook, but finally, i’ve stopped bumbling around and got back down to some cooking. Now, in all honesty, this is partly because i no longer have a resident Alex whipping up delicious Asian creations for me on a daily basis and the cravings are getting BAD! I needed a chilli fix, pronto. Also because the boredom of the countryside struck and i needed something to do. Since my return, mum has been asking for one thing and one thing only, cheesecake. It’s her big weakness so one of those was in the works today as well. Her favourite is the plain, new york style cheesecake so that’s what we went for. The good thing about this kind of cheesecake is you can basically please everyone. Make up one of these and then you can make up some different compotes or sauces and plonk them all down on the table and let everyone help themself, voila you have several differnet cheesecakes for the price of one. It’s also just a good base recipe to have as you can use it as a starting block and add a whole host of flavours and it’ll completely change it. For example, add some lemon juice and zest or some grated cinnamon, swap out the ginger biscuits for another flavour, anything you want really. I will admit, this isn’t the speediest thing to make, whilst the actual making of it is easy and has hardly any ingredients, you do have to fiddle with the oven temperatures a bit. You also have to show super-human self control not to eat it straight away as it needs to chill in the fridge over night, i know, i know, you really won’t want to but it’ll be worth it, i promise. This cheesecake serves 6-8

Cheesecake

25g unsalted butter
70g biscuits (i used ginger ones)

300g full fat cream cheese
85g caster sugar
1/2 tsp vanilla extract
2 eggs
75g 0% fat greek yoghurt

First things first, preheat the oven to 180C/160C if you have a fan oven 350F. Then melt the butter and crush up the biscuits, either in a food processor or in a bag with a rolling pin- this way is good for taking out some frustration. Combine the melted butter and the crushed biscuits and press into the bottom of a springform cake tin lined with parchment, bake the base for 10 minutes and then remove from the oven.

Turn the heat up to 220C/430F.

If you have a kitchenaid stand mixer then use that, if not then grab out an electric hand whisk and a bowl and get to work. Put the cream cheese in the bowl and beat on a low speed, gradually adding the sugar, mix until combined. Then add the the vanilla extract and eggs, one at a time, mixing slowly until combined and scrape down the sides. Lastly add the greek yoghurt and mix until everything is smooth and glossy, the mixture will be quite runny, don’t worry, it’s supposed to be.

Pour the mixture over the biscuit base and cook for 10 minutes before turning the oven down to 110C/230F. Leave the door over for 3 minutes to get the temperature down, and cook for 25 minutes.

Turn the oven off and leave the cheesecake in there for 2 hours, run the knife around the outside of the tin and then put back in the oven for an hour and a half.  It’ll be a bit jiggly in the centre but thats what you want, anymore and it’ll be overdone and just crack.

After that, get it nestled nicely in the fridge and tuck it in for the night. In the morning you can finally indulge, cut a much anticipated slice and enjoy.

Spicy Thai-ish Meatball Noodle

So, i don’t know if this is technically thai but it’s damn good, and honestly, when something is this yummy, i’m not sure you’ll really care how authentic it’s origins are. I was jonesing for something spicy and soupy and noodley and this just ticked all the boxes. I’m not entirely sure where the idea for this came from, i guess it had something to do with my brother not wanting shredded chicken – my go to meat for spicy noodle soups, in part because it’s something i usually have knocking around the fridge. It’s so easy to just roast or poach a chicken and have it in the fridge to chuck in salads, sandwiches, soups, pastas, anything that takes your fancy really. So, banned from chicken, i went to rummage in the fridge and found some minced beef i’d bought the day before to make chilli, spicy meatballs seemed like they might be the way forward, and after receiving the thumbs up from the frere, that’s just what i did. And it was good, by cooking the meatballs in the stock it took on a deep beefy savouriness that was just delicious and so satisfying. Combined with the heat of the chilli and the freshness of a bit of coriander and i had something i’ll be making again and again.

For the Meatballs:

1/2 carrot, finely diced
1 clove of garlic, finely diced
1 tbsp finely chopped ginger
6 finely diced coriander stalks

1 spring onion, finely diced
2 thai birds eye chillis, finely diced

450g lean (10% fat) minced beef

Fry the 1st four ingredients in a little oil until soft and then combine with the beef, chillis and spring onion. Smoosh everything up together so that you have a nice, even distribution of all the ingredients. Roll the mixture into balls about the size of large walnuts and fry on a high heat until they have a nice dark colour, you might need to do this in batches. Drain the meatballs on kitchen roll and set aside until you need them.

For the soup part:

2.5 litres of chicken stock
4-6 kaffir lime leaves, depending on the size
2 galangal chips
1 1/2 inches of fresh ginger, roughly sliced
2 garlic cloves, sliced
20 thai chillis, bruised (just bash them a bit so they can release their oils)
4 tbsp soy sauce
1 1/2 tbsp shaoxing rice wine
1 tbsp fish sauce
2 tbsp oyster sauce
1 tbsp tamarind paste
1/2 tsp palm sugar

4 bundles ramen noodles

to serve:
coriander leaves
chopped spring onions

This is pretty easy i have to say, you pretty much just bung everything into a big pot and bring it to the boil, then simmer for about 20-30 minutes until you like what you’re tasting, removing the lime leaves about halfway through. Add the meatballs and simmer for 10 minutes until the meatballs are cooked through. Now, for some reason, my chillis were just not doing it for me heatwise (i think waitrose are having a couple of blah batches at the moment) so i added 10 dried red chillis to the mix after the soup had been on for 5-10 minutes. Obviously you don’t have to add this many chillis, it’s completely up to you, depending on how spicy you like things, but, as they say, some like it hot.

Whilst all this is blipping away, cook the bundles of ramen noodles in boiling water for 4 minutes, then drain and rinse under cold water.

Plating up is simple, put a nest of noodles in the bottom of a bowl, add some of the meatballs and ladle over some over the strained soup. Top with coriander leaves, sliced spring onions and some diced chilli (i fished out some of the dried red ones that had softened in the soup and chopped those up). All you need now is a spoon and a fork and to curl of somewhere and slurp greedily away, this is not a delicate little meal, it’s a great big bowl of comforting deliciousness, so just go for it.

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oh the joy of good ingredients

06 Monday Jun 2011

Posted by Tales of a London Girl in asparagus, bacon, broccoli, cake, chicken, crostini, elderfower, feta, gooseberry, salad, soup, stilton, tomato

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So apologies, i know i’ve been pretty slack with the whole cooking/blogging/ much of anything since i left Nassau but i decided it was time to get back down to it, so when i returned from London on Friday afternoon, off i went. We were heading to a friends house for the evening but Alex wanted a snack as we hadn’t really eaten that day so i had a rummage through the fridge and got cracking. It didn’t take long before i landed on the idea of a bruschetta/crostini kinda thing. These are something i make a lot, varying the ingredients depending on the season, what i have in the fridge and, most importantly, my mood; leading Alex to declare me the ‘queen of crostini’ the other day. Now, not meaning to brag (well, maybe just a little) but i think this one in particular definitely gets me closer to that kind of title. It’s yummy and it’s scrummy and you might love me just a little bit after trying this. Obviously if this doesn’t really grab you then just mix it up a little, you could swap out the herbs, use a different cheese, whatever you like really, that’s the whole beauty of something like this. I know that it’s basically just random stuff on toast but if you use some proper ingredients and are nice to your bread, treat it well etc, then what you end up with is so much more than the sum of it’s parts. This recipe will make 2 decent sized crostini, serve one with a salad for lunch. I had some really yummy bits left around the fridge, perfectly sweet cherry tomatoes from the market, a herb and chilli marinated feta from a great little deli stall and thick cut smoked bacon from the butcher. I know you’re probably getting annoyed with me rambling on about it already but honestly, buying good ingredients will make more difference than i can say. Don’t believe me? just try it and see

Crostini with tomato, bacon, feta, basil and topped off nicely with some fried quails eggs


2 pieces of bread, get some nice stuff, sourdough, ciabatta or just a good granary will all work well
2 rashers of smoked back bacon
10 cherry tomatoes, halved
5 basil leaves
1/4-1/3 of a block of feta
1 clove garlic
4 quails eggs

First things first, get yourself a frying pan on the hob and get it heating up, fry the bacon in a tiny bit of oil until it’s all nice and crispy, especially the fat, you really don’t want chewy fat in something like this. Once it’s done, remove the bacon onto some kitchen roll and chuck the halved cherry tomatoes into the pan, adding a tiny bit more oil if necessary. Cook until just soft and remove. Add the bread to the pan, this is such a good way of toasting bread as it means that it soaks up all the delicious flavours from the pan as well as getting golden. Once it’s nicely coloured on both sides, rub the toast with a cut garlic clove, it’s amazing how much of a difference this makes (you need to do it whilst the toast is hot though). Chop up the bacon into little strips and toss with the tomatoes and crumbled up feta. Tear up the basil and add that to the mix along with some salt and pepper. All you need to do now is fry up those quails eggs and assemble. Simply pile up everything on the toast and top each one with 2 quails eggs. Done and dusted, now tell me that’s not good?



Hmm, now what next? Well i got back the following day and was greeted by some pretty sad looking broccoli. It was looking at me as if to say “if you don’t use me today, tonight i’m going to die and then you’ll be sorry”. Obviously I couldn’t let that happen, so i decided to make some soup, specifically, Broccoli and Stilton soup. This is an age old combination and there’s good reason behind this, it’s luscious and rich and velvety smooth. What more do you want from a soup? So it might not be the most summery combination but when you taste it, i’m not sure how much you’ll care. Also, lets be honest, you know as well as i do that we’ll have at least a handful of crappy, rainy days during the summer so make it on one of those days if you can’t bear to do it when it’s sunny. It also is really quick and takes very few ingredients to make. All good so far so here it is.

Broccoli and Stilton Soup

1 small onion, diced
1 small garlic glove, thinly sliced
knob of butter
2 new potatoes (or 1 small normal, it’s just for a bit of body) thinly siced
1 medium head of broccoli
100g stilton
500ml chicken stock

Start by sweating the onions and garlic in a knob of butter until they’re soft and translucent but don’t let them get any colour. Add the stock and the potatoes. Divide the broccoli into florets and stalk. Peel and trim the stalk and then finely slice it. When the potato is nearly cooked, add the stalk, and after a minute or so, add the florets. Cook until the broccoli is just cooked as you want it to stay vibrant and green. Crumble the Stilton into the soup and stir to melt it in. Allow to cool a little bit and then blend. Top with a little extra crumbled stilton if you like (i like) and serve on it’s own or with a hunk of crusty bread.

Later on that evening, my mum and her friend were coming round for dinner so Alex and i decided to cook something relaxed and simple. In short, something that would ensure that we weren’t tied to the stove all evening frantically stirring and chopping. As the sun had decided to show itself we wanted something light and tasty and roast chicken with a big bold salad seemed like something that would fit the bill nicely. And it did indeed. Now, we found a chilli, garlic and pepper salt in sainsburys by Jamie Oliver so we used that but if you don’t have any then don’t worry.

Roast Chicken with a Big Summery Salad


For the chicken:
1 chicken
1/2 a peach
1/2 a lemon
3 garlic cloves
small bunch of thyme
salt and pepper
Jamie Oliver chilli, ginger and pepper salt
2 rashers bacon

1 red pepper, quartered
2 tomatoes, thickly sliced
2 mushrooms roughly chopped
1 onion roughly chopped into about 8

Preheat the oven to 180C/350F. Stuff the chicken with the 1/2 peach, 1/2 lemon, garlic cloves and thyme. Season inside and outside with salt, pepper and the chilli/ginger/pepper/salt if using. Put a roasting tin on the hob and get some oil hot in it. Sear the chicken on all sides until lightly golden. Remove the chicken and add the pepper, tomatoes, mushrooms and onion to the pan before setting the chicken back on top. Lay a slice of bacon over each breast and pop that sucker in the oven. After 15 minutes, or once the bacon is crispy remove the bacon and set aside and dot a knob of butter on each breast. Roast until the juices run clear when you poke it, about an hour or so. Make sure you stab it in the thickest part of the leg as this takes the longest to cook. Once it’s done, make a little tin foil tent over the chicken and let it rest for 15 minutes.

Meanwhile, whilst the chicken is in the oven, get on with the salad

2 peaches, sliced
1/3 cucumber
15-20 cherry tomatoes, halved
3/4 block of feta, crumbled
1 roasted red pepper (use the one from under the chicken)
2 bacon rashers (again the ones from the chicken)
2 big spring onions or 3 or 4 normal ones
1 bunch asparagus
800g-1kg new potatoes

Lightly pan fry the peaches (no oil) until they soften slightly, this won’t take too long. Halve the cucumber lengthways and finely slice, do the same with the spring onions. Peel and trim the woody ends of the asparagus, wash the new potatoes. Boil or steam them both (bear in mind that the new potatoes will take longer, depending on how big they are) until just cooked. Quarter the new potatoes. Once the chicken is done, chop up the bacon and red pepper and then toss everything up together in a big bowl and dress with good olive oil and balsamic vinegar.

After we’d all had a little rest, we rolled right on into dessert, which is, in fact, the first of many gooseberry recipes to come as I bought a fairly obscene amount the other day (but more of that next time). Anyway, one of goosebery’s bestest friends is the elderflower so i thought, simples, lets get those to together for a little reunion. This cake will serve 8 people and is a great tea time cake as well as a dessert as it’s light and refreshing. I used a standard sized, fairly shallow cake tin here so if you’ve have one then use that. This is a really easy cake to make, the cake batter itself i’ve been using in some form or another since i was about 4 so even if you’re not a baker i think you’ll be ok.

Gooseberry and Elderflower Cake

150g gooseberries
1-2 tsp elderflower cordial depending on how strong it is
100g soft butter + extra for greasing
100g caster sugar
100g plain flour + extra for the tin
2 large eggs

Preheat the oven to 180C (i put it in the same oven as the chicken). Butter your cake tin and then dust lightly and evenly with flour, tap out the excess flour. Halve the gooseberries and arrange as many as you can get, willy nilly over the bottom of the cake tin. For the cake batter, cream the butter and sugar together. Add one egg and combine followed by half the flour and repeat with the other egg and rest of the flour. Stir in the elderflower cordial. Pour the cake batter over the gooseberries and even the top. Add the remaining berries and push just under the surface. Bake for 20-25 minutes, until lightly golden and a skewer/knife comes out clean. Serve with lightly whipped double cream to which you’ve added a little vanilla extract.

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the homecoming

05 Sunday Jun 2011

Posted by Tales of a London Girl in Uncategorized

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Well we’re back from Nassau, back in my rather chilly homeland of England. When informed upon landing that the current temperature was 12 degrees, we both visibly winced. It was quickly decided that the only way to sustain ourselves was slight hibernation and some delicious food. Obviously this is all a tad over dramatic but when you get off the plane and it’s a good 40 degrees less than when you got on, it comes as a bit of a shock to the system.
After a measly little nap we motored up to london for the evening for dinner with alex’s sisters. We got off the train and jumped straight in a cab to Itsu sushi on Draycott Ave. Now originally i wasn’t thrilled about this choice as i was tired and grumpy and wanting something a little more comforting than raw fish, however, once we got inside and were seated next to the little conveyor belt, needless to say, i changed my tune. I love this kind of sushi place as i’m someone that gets pretty serious food envy, with this wondrous little system you can preview everything before making your decision (well decisions as obviously you get a few tasty little morsels). There were five of us, so we just got a big selection and everyone dove in, from tuna sashimi to gyoza, duck crystal rolls to yellowtail snapper sahimi, miso soup, squid, chicken and coconut soup, finishing everything off with a couple of big bowls of edamame. Now my love of edamame is verging on an addiction, they are, i do believe, the perfect pre-dinner pick/drinks party nibble. The healthy alternative to the crisp if you like. They’re also stupidly easy. Even if you can’t cook, you can do this. All you have to do is get some edamame beans in the pods, boil or steam for a few minutes until tender, toss with some good salt and you’re good to go. We had one bowl of the regular salted ones and one bowl tossed with chilli and soy and other yummy things ( i wasn’t paying that much attention, i was too busy eating). The duck crystal rolls would have been vastly improved by some decent hoi sin sauce, what we were presented with was thin and pretty insipid, not great. The miso soup however was awesome, i could easily have wolfed down several more bowls had i had room. We were all feeling a little virtuous at dinner so the wildly exciting drinks were endless rounds of green tea. This was definitely needed however as the combination of several weeks boozing in Nassau, combined with some rather mean jet lag meant that i was feeling lethargic, dehydrated and generally not too healthy.
After dinner i obviously scuppered this though when we were whisked off for drinks at the newly opened Playboy club. It’s still in it’s first week but so far so very good, the restaurant will definitely have to be sampled before too long but i would advise to steer clear if you’re on any kind of bikini diet. It’s not exactly what you’d call a healthy menu, good for the mouth, not so good for the waist. The real crowning glory however is Salvatorre’s, the ground floor bar. He’s a world-renowned barman and one taste of the cocktails and you can see why. I went for one of his signature cocktails, the Spicy Fifty, a perfectly balanced blend of vanilla vodka, elderflower, honey, lime and chilli. Definitely something i would recommend.
The next day it was off to Marylebone, our old stomping ground and location of Alex’s favourite pub. After running in, eager to see some familiar faces, only to be greeted by a girl we’d never seen before, i dragged a rather dejected Alex for brunch at Providores on Marylebone High St. It’s a great little fusion restaurant with a new zealand influence. A cosy, relaxed tapa room on the ground floor and a more formal restaurant on the 1st floor. I always head for the tapa room, especially at the weekend (we used to live 5 minutes round the corner) as their brunch menu is great. Having the usual brunch items as well as things for the more adventurous, those who are bored with the usual eggs benedict routine. If you do go for the standard – as i did because they use such high quality ingredients that it raises the bar, you won’t leave unsatisfied.
So, as i said, i went for the the Tapa room fry up, scrambly eggs, bacon, slow roast tomatoes and mushrooms, all on a nice bit of crunchy sourdough. This was all yum, if a little under seasoned. I’ll tell you what wasn’t though, the Boston baked beans. Dear lord, way too much smoky bacon and way too much molasses. The result was a bit of a sickening smoky mess. Not so successful. Nor was Alex’s i have to say. He went for the turkish style eggs, a delicious sounding combination of poached eggs, whipped yoghurt and a hot chilli butter. Sadly the end result was distinctly under-whelming, the yoghurt being so overpowering that in the end it was really the only thing you could taste. Our friend Mark come to join us just after we ordered and his banana and pecan french toast with bacon was a real hit though. A distinctly on and off meal, definitely not as good as the last meal i had there by a long way, i guess a lot can change in 5 months. I will say this though, whilst we stuck to tea this time, they do a Mango Bellini that is out of this world so if you find yourself there you should definitely try one (or two, or three)….

We headed back to the country for a couple of days to recouperate but sure enough, tuesday rolled around and we found ourselves back on the train and london bound once more. The evening passed in a haze of Mexican food, margaritas and champagne (along with a couple of others thrown in for good measure) and before we knew it, we were waking up, bleary eyed and in need of something to sustain and soothe and set our sights on The Breakfast Club in Soho.

This was mainly because, whilst perusing the menu the week before, i espied a cheese and marmite toastie. Now, i definitely am a lover not a hater, firmly believing that many things can be improved by a loving lash of marmite so this was right up my street, especially when i’m not feeling my brightest.I also love that it does brunch every single day until 5pm. Excellent. Don’t worry, there’s also a regular menu from midday onwards if you’re not a brunch obsessive like us and in the evening you can bring along the booze of your choice and merrily consume to your hearts content.

Now that, a fruit smoothie with hangover boost (why don’t more places do that by the way?) and a shared plate of potato wedges with aioli (which was actually a bit weird, kind of sweet) and a was feeling like a new person.

Alex went for eggs benedict – no surprises there then and informed me that you could tell everything was super fresh which is always a good thing, especially as we ordered just before they stopped doing breakfast.

After all this we just relaxed for the evening, deciding that venturing out was simply not on the cards. Nothing like breakfast followed by an early night, totally the wrong way round and just what we needed that day.

The next day brought with it some delights of it’s own. Firstly, coffee and homemade alfajores with a friend followed by dinner at As Greek As It Gets, a restaurant in Earls Court that i’ve been meaning to try for over a year. Now, just in case you’re thinking “what the hell are alfajores?’ fear not, i’d never had one before either but my god are they something i’ll be having again. Made by my friend angelina, a fellow cordon bleurian, they’re 2 shortbread biscuits glued together with Dulce de Leche (surely the best kind of glue ever?) and then the outside rolled in coconut. Utter heaven, and something i’ll definitely be making before too long (or begging at her door for more).

After that, as i said, we headed off for greek food, something i never get enough as there seem to be so few good greek restaurants. I find this so strange as it’s something that almost everyone that tries it falls for but just never seems to be around. We decided to go for a selection of starters and skip the mains, mezze style, as there were too many tempting options to narrow it down any further.

First out there was Halloumi which was grilled to perfection and finished with just a squeeze of lemon juice, simple and moreishly good. Although, as you can see, the garnish left a lot to be desired.

Alex ordered an Avgolemno, a traditional chicken, egg, rice and lemon soup which i really wasn’t a big fan of. I usually like it but this one was just a bit insipid, some more lemon and some seasoning would have gone a long way. It kind of tasted like bland chicken rice pudding. Does that sound appealing? No, not so much.

There were also some very good garlic pitta breads with tzatziki and a dip of whipped feta and chilli which was so good we actually packed up what we couldn’t eat and took it with us! One of my favourite dishes to arrive was a spicy sausage cooked with onions and aubergine, soooo tasty, i actually didn’t share this very well.

Next up it was the turn of some broad bean fritters and squid stuffed with feta, peppers and onions. I liked the fritters, Alex didn’t. I don’t really like squid, he thought it was good. It’s all a matter of taste when it comes down to it but overall it was a pretty scrumptious little meal.

Last but not least were some courgette fritters topped with a little grated kefalotyri cheese. These were cooked so perfectly that the inside became perfectly creamy and fluffy whilst the outside was still crunchy. Finished with a squeeze of lemon and it all came together nicely, especially when i added a little salt.

Overall, although there were a couple of things we weren’t crazy about – me with the soup and alex with the croquettes – on the whole we had a pretty good meal. it’s somewhere i’d definitely check out again if i was in the area, i’d just maybe make a few menu substitutions. When it comes to the wine though, beware. Alex had a carafe of rose which was not good, i’d reccommend you go for a non-greek option if you want rose unless you like it cloyingly sweet as this one really was. It’s also pretty good value so it’s somewhere you can just pop into if you’re feeling lazy and not worry about breaking the bank.
I’ve finally got down to some cooking this week as well so keep your eyes peeled as there’ll be new recipes up soon.

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